12 3/4 miles
Weather - warm with sunny intervals and a glorious sunset
We started today's journey along the banks of the River Tees which was in full, rushing, gushing state. We toddled along an easy riverbank path through meadows and woodland with purple foxgloves, blue cranesbill, yellow buttercups and creamy meadowsweet as a flowery accompaniment. After passing Scoberry Bridge and Wynch Bridge (the world's first suspension bridge erected in 1830) we reached Low Force and it was magnificent with water raging over the rocks and boulders.Onwards and upwards past Holwick Head Bridge and we entered Upper Teesdale National Nature Reserve. The path was flanked by twisted, stunted Juniper trees as we approached the highlight of today's walk - High Force. If you haven't seen it you must go. We could hear it a long time before we saw it, then we could feel it through our feet and, finally, there it was in all its glory - a roaring, awe-inspring sight. By the way, being on the national trail we did not have to pay to view the falls. Then we were off again in to the wonderful countryside of Teesdale. We soon reached Cronkley Bridge and crossed the River Tees to strike off over the moors to Westgate.
This is where we went awry. We crossed the B6277 and searched for a footpath to Hanging Shaw. We eventually found it after having to retrace our steps along the road. However, the gate to the path was locked and there was no sign of a visible path across the meadow. We walked further along the B road and up a minor road to pass a school looking for where the path came out. We could not find it so I walked over to the school just as the children and their teacher were coming out into the playground carrying water pistols and washing up bowls full of water ready for a water fight. They were all v. excited as it was the last day of term. The teacher didn't know where Hanging Shaw was but the children did. So off we went but we still could not see the path, eventually we found a ladder stile -which didn't have a footpath sign, and then proceeded with difficulty through a field with horses, across another field towards a ruined barn to reach a locked gate. There then followed a frustrating time - ladder stiles with rungs removed, barbed wire along tops of locked gates, oodles of mud and cows. After two hours of not getting anywhere fast we decided to retreat as it was now 4 o'clock and we still had 8 or so miles to walk over very juicy moorland. We walked down a country road and eventually arrived back at the High Force Hotel where we thought we could have a drink and ring for a taxi. How wrong can you be? The pub was shut and the place was full of midges. Whilst we waited we met a guy who worked for the Roby Estate which owns the falls, the hotel and all the land and farms in the area. We related our woes to him and he said he would pass on our story to the estate managers. It seems the Roby Estate is very keen to have walkers passing through the area but many of the estate farm tenants are not. They are making their displeasure known by wilful neglect and vandalism of the footpaths, signs, stiles and gates. I must say I have never experienced anything like it. We knew we were on the right path more or less but the local farmers were making it very difficult.
Eventually the taxi came and drove us over the moor we were looking for earlier and deposited us at the most loveliest B&B I have ever stayed in - Hill House East in Westgate-in-Weardale. It was wonderful. Wood burning stove to place our boots besides, chickens laying eggs for our breakfast, beautiful views up and down Weardale and perfect hosts. Goodnight.
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