Day 14

Kirkland to Appleby (August 2013)
11 1/2 miles
Weather - Dry, overcast, warm and rainy at the end of the day

Our last day for this section of the walk.  We were driven back to Kirkland after breakfast and we were walking by 10:00am.  We did not follow the exact path out of Kirkland but it was close enough.  Just as we passed a house at Wythwaite we met two gentlemen.  They asked us where we were heading and were very interested to hear we were walking the Pennine Journey as they had just been talking about it. (There is a PJ waymarker just here).The two gents were locals and one lived at Wythwaite House.  They were full of advice about the next few miles.
We were keen to see the Hanging Gardens of Mark Anthony which are marked on the map.  Well, we saw them but they are not very hanging or wall like - more like a bit of a ditch...

In the next field we encountered our arch enemies - bulls, cows and calves - a large herd spread all over the field.  We ventured across and just as we got past them all they all started moving.  We walked calmly but purposefully to the stile and made a sharp exit over it.  We now had to cross Crowdundle Beck where two bridges have been washed away in recent years.  We did not know if a third bridge had been erected yet - the two gentlemen of Wythwaite assured us it had and it was there.  It is known locally as the Duke of Edinburgh's bridge as it was erected after a very irate group of Duke of Edinburgh teenagers objected very strongly to the lack of a bridge when they had to cross the beck and they had to do a detour of a mile or so.  A few weeks later the new bridge miraculously appeared. 

The next stage took us across fields, stiles, through gates, along farm tracks and paths to the village of Milburn.  Milburn is an example of a fortified medieval village and it has a giant maypole on the very large village green.  It's a beautiful and interesting place.  We sat on a bench by the green and had a snack whilst four farm lads and a sheepdog trundled past on a quad bike - I did not know you could get so many on one!  We departed Milburn over Stank Beck and headed for Knock where we had lunch sat on another conveniently placed bench.  A very quiet place but we chatted to a resident who had just returned from a trip to Appleby.  He had a lovely, well-behaved dog. We then got a bit lost in Milburn Grange as I missed a stile and sent us off floundering over a very boggy field full of cows for twenty minutes. Mrs C saved the day when we retraced our steps and found the stile.

Dufton was the next village.  Another trip down memory lane for Mrs C as Dufton is on the Pennine Way and has a youth hostel, a pub and now, a tea room.  Another lovely village with a green, a fountain, chickens scratching around and red sandstone cottages..  Only three miles to Appley now.  We continued through fields, by streams, through some beautiful woodlands.  The Pennine fells were with us, just to the left and it was splendid to be amongst it all.  Through out this walk we had been promised red squirrels but again we did not see any.  We did see lots of pheasants today - they scattered in all directions as we plodded through the woods.  A dip under the busy A66 and then we were in Appleby.

We felt a celebration was called for so we adjourned to the Midland Hotel next to Appleby Station to enjoy a G&T outside.  I popped in to the loo and when I came back Mrs C had acquired a dog on a lead.  Probably the funniest moment of the walk.  I looked at the dog and then at Mrs C.  She looked back at me as did the dog.  Once I'd stopped laughing I asked why and how?  It seems a gentleman arrived and asked if Mrs C liked dogs.  Mrs C said "No" then the gent gave Mrs C the lead and said, "I won't be long, just going to buy a pint.  He's no bother, he's seventeen and blind as a bat." 

We headed into town to change and shower for the evening.  It was Bank Holiday weekend so everywhere was very busy.  We decide to head back to the Midland Hotel and have dinner there....no dogs this time.

It has been a most excellent week. I am looking forward to the last stage next year - Appleby to Settle.
 The highlights...

• Hadrian's Wall - 2nd day Once Brewed to Greenhead
• The Italians
• Sycamore Gap
• Bleckinsop Castle
• East House - walled gardens
• Bats flying round me outside Kellah B&B
• Lambley Viaduct
• Climbing Cross Fell
• The view from Cross Fell
• Seeing an Adder
• The curious incident of the dog at the pub

Day 13

Alston to Kirkland (August 2013)
15 miles
Weather - war, sunny intervals, rain on Cross Fell, no wind

An early breakfast this morning made by our lovely landlady Pat - porridge and poached eggs and home made jam.  We were on the road by 8:15 and it was a lovely, clear morning.  We followed the Pennine Way out of town past the Youth Hostel and by the banks of the River Tyne.  The first four miles were idyllic - river on the right, farmland all around and nobody about - just us and the sheep.  We remembered to turn and wave at the white house at Low Nest and hoped that Pat was looking out for us on the other side of the valley. 

We arrived in Garrigill and had a drink and a snack ready for the climb up Cross Fell.  The village is perfect - a post office, a pub, a green and...public toilets. 

Then we were off along the Corpse Road to Cross Fell.  A steady climb out of the valley with views of the moors opening up around us.  We passed old lead mining areas with piles of spoil and gaping holes.  We could hear guns firing so we knew the grouse hunters were around.  Then we saw all their vehicles parked up - mostly Range Rovers.  We saw lots of grouse but the hunters were over the moor, a 1/4 mile away.  Intermittent rain fell and then a downpour arrived but no wind and fairly good visibility and still quite warm.  I guess we were very lucky that the weather was being so kind to us.  We trudged through Black Cut which had extensive mine workings and spoil heaps from the old mines.  Eventually we spotted Greg's Hut - our lunch stop.  We had great views across the moors and saw only two other people out walking.  After Greg's Hut we left the Pennine Way.  We were not visiting the summit of Cross Fell as we had to be in Kirkland by 5:00.  We crossed the shoulder of the fell and started the decent to Kirkland via an old miners track.  It was a long, slow slog down the hill but we had the most splendid view!  Crossing the watershed the weather cleared and we could see for miles - the Lakeland fells, the Solway Firth and Scotland beyond - marvellous.  I loved Cross Fell and walking across it was another walking ambition realised.  It's vast, brooding, stark and desolate.  It's a no frills landscape with place names to match - Black Cut, Leadgate, Low Sikes.

We arrived in Kirkland at 4:00 which gave us plenty of time to sit a spell and have a snack before our taxi picked us up to drive us into Appleby to our next B&B.  The sun shone, we watched the tractors coming and going with their loads of  silage and  we chatted about our day's walking.  A lovely remote spot - just a couple of farms, some cottages and a church.  We arrived at  Bongate House B&B and found we had the same room as last time we visited whilst walking The Dales High Way.  A great B&B and the owners are fellow Mancunians.

Day 12

Kellah to Alston (August 2013)
13 miles
Weather:  cloudy, sunny intervals, showers, cleared by evening

A good breakfast at Kellah B&B to set us up for the day.  We rejoined the Pennine Way to begin but we immediately went wrong!  We turned left too soon after Batey Shield and walked down a deep clough which we then had to clamber out of - very embarrassing.  After twenty minutes we were back on the right track and trudged over a boggy moor with a slight detour to avoid cows. At Lambley we followed the path under the impressive Lambley Viaduct and then we were on the South Tyne Trail to Slaggyford and beyond.

A scenic walk with woodland, the River Tyne and occasional glimpses of the moors which were looking their best with the purple heather on display.  During this stage the path runs parallel with the A689 and the Pennine Way.  At Burnstones we stopped for lunch,  At Slaggyford,which was once a thriving centre for nail making, we left the South Tyne Trail and rejoined the Pennine Way.  By this stage Mrs C was very tired after a poor night's sleep and suffering from a blistered heel.I knew we were approaching the South Tynedale Railway and I thought that maybe she could hitch a ride to Alston.  At this exact moment a father and son appeared on the path.  We chatted, as you do, and they told us they were waiting for the train to depart at the station - bingo!  Quicker than you can say, "Narrow gauge railway", I had Mrs C installed on the train, fair paid and ticket clutched, rattling along in a carriage off to Alston.  I waved her off and continued with the walk.

At this point the official route continues along the Pennine Way to Alston - 5 1/2 miles.  The easier, shorter route was 4 miles alongside the railway.  I took the easier option as it was quicker and cow free.  A pleasant walk - I had the river on one side, with bridges to cross, birds to look at.  I saw a fallow deer scamper over the railway line as the train was coming along.  I arrived in Alston as a shower passed overhead.  I visited the town hall and a helpful lady gave me directions to our B&B Greycroft B&B.  Jane was already installed when I arrived and resting.  I had tea and homemade cake with our landlady in the lounge.   A shower, a change of clothes and we headed out for dinner at Alston House where we had a tasty meal.

Day 11

Once Brewed to Kellah (August 2013)
13 miles
Weather - cloudy to start, clearing later with sunny intervals and a warm breeze

On the trail by 9:00am and just us on the path.  This section is very up and very down so my trusty stick came in very handy today.  Windshield Crags came and went and we were buzzed by fighter jets.  As the morning progressed we met more walkers who were all very happy to chat.  We met a couple from Cannock who were bikers.  We met the Italians again - the young lady was not feeling so good and was planning to catch the bus at Greenhead.  Her partner was looking super stylish with his mini-sou'wester hat.  We stopped at Cawfield Crags to use the handy loos and then before we knew it we reached Walltown Crags where we had lunch.  There were toilets (spoilt today) and a shop selling tea, ices-cream, sandwiches, gifts, postcards and blister plasters (they know their market).  We took the opportunity to buy and write postcards whilst enjoying a cup of tea.  The very kind lady running the shop said she would post the cards - a lovely lady and a lovely place.  

Next on the trail was a romantic ruin - Thirlwall Castle.  This was closely followed by a walk into Greenhead via a path flanked by a river,  railway and wild raspberries.  At Greenhead we left the Hadrian's Wall Trail and had to negotiate crossing the fast and furious A69.  We waited for a lull in the traffic and scuttled over accompanied by a friendly wave and blow of a horn  from a lorry driver.  Up an embankment to a stile and our first encounter with a Pennine Journey waymarker.  The next section was vague.  We were looking for a ladder stile, half right at the end of a row of Hawthornes.  We eventually found it after wading through long marsh grass and tussocks with no discernible track.  

For the next section of the trail we re-joined the Pennine Way which I do not think we had encountered since Tan Hill last year.  It was all going very well for five minutes, then we saw the cows, then we saw the calves and finally we saw the bull.  They were all stood on the path ahead between us and the next stile. 

Now, usually bulls in fields with cows and calves do not take an interest in walkers.  This one was very interested.  He stood on the path and turned to look at us with his mean, beady eyes and his nose ring glinting.  Mrs C and I had the same thought - we looked at each other, looked at the bull and decided that this bull would not let us pass without a fight.  There was not a way round - this was a very large field.  We turned about and headed purposefully back to the last stile - let us call it a dignified retreat.  At a safe distance we consulted the map.  There did not seem to be any paths or routes to take us round this field so we decided to head back towards Greenhead to the hamlet of Bankhope and follow the minor roads to Kellah.  This was an interesting walk along a neglected, little used path.  There was a steep decent into Bankhope via negoiating a fallen tree across the path.  We were looking for the minor road to Kellah and asked two very kind gentlemen who were happy to help and gave us clear instructions whilst saying, "You're walking!  All the way to Kellah?".  We paused at Bleckinsop Castle which is a ruined castle and, by the way, is up for sale for £1.75m.  We then found the road and yomped along it for 2 1/2 miles to our next B&B at Kellah.  Obviously my  2p offering to the god Mithras, The Bull God, was not enough.  It should have been at least a goat sacrifice to make sure the path was clear of bulls across Bleckinsop Common.

We arrived at  Kellah B&B at 6:00pm and had tea and biscuits in the lounge with our landlady and two other guests, a farmer and his wife from Cork, Ireland. We had dinner at the Greenhead Hotel - lovely meal and friendly staff. 

Day 10

Walwick to Once Brewed (August 2013)
12 miles
Weather:  Strong westerly wind (17 mph), sunny intervals, slight rain showers

Oh the pure joy of waking up on a Monday morning and knowing you do not have to get up and go to work. The sheer pleasure of  a week full of walking with a good friend in a glorious place.

We enjoyed a tasty, filling breakfast with homemade jam and home grown tomatoes. We met a young Italian couple at breakfast who are walking Hadrian's Wall and followed by the West Highland Way.

We were soon back on the trail with memories, for me, of 2004.  Broccolita Fort and the Mithras temple all present and correct.  I left a votive offering at the temple - a whole 2p.  There were lots of people out walking today on this very popular trail so lots of "hellos", "good mornings", "isn't it windy!" comments. The wall was very much in evidence today along with the vallum and ditch and the ever present military road.  We had fantastic views in all directions with high, scudding clouds above us.  We stopped for lunch and met a volunteer path warden.  He has a 3km stretch to take care of and we walked along with him for a short time.  He shared lots of interesting snippets about the history of the wall.   

We tramped past mile castles and turrets today which I loved - I do enjoy a ruin.   Housesteads was busy and we walked on by - it's not free and the toilets were miles way!  Our next major milestone was the junction with the Pennine Way at Rapishaw Gap - happy memories for Mrs C.  I am very glad to report on this trip I did see and admire the Sycamore tree at Sycamore Gap.  I completely failed to look at it on my last trip as I was v. tired after a very long 18 mile day...so this time we stopped and took photos.  The excitement today was increased by seeing an adder on the path.  I just managed to get the camera out in time and take a snap -a beautiful creature. 

We arrived at Once Brewed Youth Hostel at 4:00pm just as reception was opening.  Showers, dinner booked, laundry done and journal written up - we are a well oiled machine when it comes to the end of a day's walking.  We had dinner at the hostel which was grim - my fresh fruit salad was from a tin....  We toddled off to the Twice Brewed pub which was buzzing with walkers, including the Italian couple we met at the B&B,  cyclists, diners and  day trippers  .  A lovely, sociable end to  a very enjoyable day.

Day 9

Hexham to Walwick (August 2013)
6 miles
Weather:  Sunshine and some cloud, warm

Our trains arrived on time in Hexham for the start of the second leg of our Pennine Journey. My train travelling via the east coast line and Mrs C's; the west coast.   Hugs and welcomes at the station then into town for a late lunch before we started walking.  We found a  lovely Greek cafe where we chatted and checked the maps.  We left Hexham in sunshine and hoped this was a sign of things to come after the very wet conditions of last year's walk.

River Tyne

We crossed the River Tyne over a fine bridge designed by Robert Mylne and then we were off into the hills towards Hadrian's Wall.  We ambled through the village of Accomb with it's water pump, 2 pubs and handsome stone houses.  An Alpaca farm was passed and we were eyed suspiciously by a flock of Alpacas; large and small.  Then, there it was, our first view of the wall at Plane Trees.  Our path was now following the Hadrian's Wall National Trail.. This had been my first long distance walk in 2004 - a walk I thoroughly enjoyed - even the first section through Newcastle which some people tend to be a bit sniffy about.  We had a pleasant stroll through a woodland and then a not so pleasant walk along a busy road.  The River Tyne was crossed again at Chollerford via another very fine structure by Mr Mylne.  It is a splendid bridge with a view down to the remains of the old Roman Bridge.  A left turn past Chesters Fort and a walk by a very grand entrance to a stately pile with lions and box hedging in intricate patterns.  We found out later that this was the  home of the founder of the Sage software.  We ascended Lincoln Hill and enjoyed an Eccles cake sat on a conveniently placed bench.

The Secret Garden

 
Before we had time to say, "Pennine Journey"  we had arrived at our first B&B of the trip, East House.  What a beautiful place!  It is an early Victorian, stone built house with the most amazing walled garden.  We had tea and cake in the wonderful greenhouse, with vines and figs lining the walls, whilst looking out over an orchard, vegetable garden, herbaceous borders, yew hedges and a rose garden.  There was even a  garden wall with a door - I was besides myself with joy.  Our hosts were very welcoming and our room was comfortable with an orginal fireplace to admire.  And so to bed dreaming of secret gardens with mysterious doors to venture through....

The Dovecot at East House, Walwick

Day 8

Blanchland to Hexham (July 2012)
11 3/4 miles
Weather: overcast, warm with sunny intervals

Another super breakfast and then fond farewells to our lovely hosts who dropped us off in Blanchland for the day's walk to Hexham.  We followed a road out of the village which soon became a track and we passed an old lead mining village called Shildon.  This used to be a drovers' route between Blanchland and Hexham. Up on the hill to the right we saw a former coaching house called Pennypie House.  We had great views now as we walked along a good path across a heather moor with blue skies above us and Derwent Reservoir in the valley away on our right.  We surveyed the moors, the sky and the valley once more before we plunged into the green quietness of Slaley Forest.  We followed the forest roads and paths and eventually we emerged by Devil's Water and followed soggy paths towards Hexham.  The paths were so water logged we disturbed toads who were wallowing in the puddles.  There were more people about now as we neared civilisation.  Around us we saw evidence of this area's lead mining past  - the ruins of houses, works and the most beautiful pair of Gothic arches appeared round a bend (the remains of an old smelting mill).  We walked through fields and sat a while on a bench placed in a perfect spot to take in the views.  The seat was a memorial to a local hiking club leader.

Now we could see the abbey in the distance - not far to Hexham now.  We entered the town - our first real town since Settle at the start,  and made our way to the nearest tea room where we enjoyed a cup of tea and a comfort break.  The tea shop was ideally situated for the tourist information office and a retail opportunity.  After our brew we wandered into the town centre to have a look at the abbey which is beautiful.  Originally built in AD900, it has some interesting artifacts including Roman tombstones (Hadrian's Wall is very close).  The crypt was closed as it was late afternoon but after hovering about the entrance for a couple of minutes one of the guides opened it up for us and we descended into the gloom of the undercroft.  It was marvellous - the crypt is part of the original 9th century abbey and you could feel the age of the place - stunning.  We ascended the steps back into the light and the 21st century and found ourselves a wine bar with tables and chairs outside which were inviting us to sit a spell and benefit from the warmth of the late afternoon sunshine.  We joined some locals and enjoyed an end of walk celebratory drink or three.  The locals were very welcoming.  We met a couple of girls who owned a beauty salon and and had just finished for the day, an old chap with a beautiful walking stick/crook which he had carved himself and a lady from Newcastle who was keen to hear all about our walking adventures.  We hope we inspired her to go walking.

So, the last day for us on the Pennine Journey but we intend to be back in the new year for the next 5 day section  - Hexham to Appleby. As our train pulled out of Hexham station we reflected on our wonderful, hard, interesting, soggy 106 mile walk and before the journey was over we had started our plans for the next stage...

Day 7

Westgate to Blanchland (July 2012)
10 3/4 miles
Weather -Warm sunshine

We had an excellent night's sleep and a splendid breakfast - our hosts were wonderful - and, best of all, we are staying here again  tonight! I went out to see the sheep and share some toast with them (by the way - bread was homemade and delicious).  I also thanked the chickens for the tasty eggs.  Now, today's walk.  Weardale was new territory for me and so I was excited about walking here.  Behind the house the moor we should have walked over yesterday looked incredible - remote, stark, bleak, boggy, bliss.

We followed the path out of town and we were soon on The Weardale Way which was our host path for part of today's trek.  It was a steep climb out of Westgate and, for once, the sun was shining.  We reached the top of the valley and paused to look back over the town and further to the far side of the Weardale Valley where we could still see our B&B.  Our hosts had promised to look out for us so we gave them a big wave as we crested the hill and disappeared. 

We skirted Height Quarry - a working quarry - and then we heard gun shots.  We rounded a bend in the path and laid out below and to the right of us was a line of men with shot guns and dogs.  I think they were hunting rabbits.  They saw us, they all stopped walking, called back their dogs and waited until we had passed round the next bend.  So glad they were vigilant and organised!    We followed a track which passed through a boggy redundant railway cutting and we descended the hill via Smailsburn to Rookhope.  So far the scenery had been majestic - an industrial landscape full of quarries, mine workings, old rail routes, tram ways, moors, ruined buildings, blue skies,Green grass and no rain.  It continued in this vein all day. 

We decided to take advantage of a tea and cake opportunity in the mining village called Rookhope.  We enjoyed a refreshing cuppa sat outside a pub and I'm glad we did as next we had to climb Bolt's Law Incline.  We were now deep in Lead mining country and this was a track going 600 feet straight up along the Sustrans C2C cycle trail.  All was fine until we reached the summit and then misread the instructions and missed a path.  We continued along the main track and realised after 20  minutes we had gone awry.  We retraced our steps and found what we thought was the right path but soon realised it was not.  The path soon fizzled out and we found ourselves doing acrobatics and tussock hopping along a very, very juicy non existent path.  We could see where we needed to be - two old lead mining chimneys in the distance but to get to them we had to cross a very boggy, wet, section of moorland.  We followed a fence with the idea that it must eventually hit and a path.  Well it almost did.  Eventually we were back on the official route via some fence climbing, grouse scaring, swearing and a feeling of slight panic.  At least it was a sunny day and we could see where we wanted to be but even now looking back at the maps I cannot see where we went wrong!  Back on track we walked between the two chimneys and down the hill towards Ramshaw.  Again this path was indistinct and extremely wet and boggy:  basically the whole hill seemed to be a river and we were wading through it and this time we were scattering rabbits in all directions. 

We eventually reached Blanchland which AW waxed lyrical about on his original walk.  The tea room was still open and so, of course, we took advantage.  Our Host from the B&B came to pick us up and drove us back for our second night's stay - very few B&B's round here.  When we arrived back at the B&B a drink was offered, we were expecting tea but instead we gratefully accepted Gin and Tonics - Colonial style.  We enjoyed them sat in the summerhouse and watched the sun go down - Cheers!

Day 6

Middleton-in-Teesdale to Westgate-in-Weardale (July 2012)
12 3/4 miles
Weather - warm with sunny intervals and a glorious sunset

We started today's journey along the banks of the River Tees which was in full, rushing, gushing state.  We toddled along an easy riverbank path through meadows and woodland with purple foxgloves, blue cranesbill, yellow buttercups and creamy meadowsweet as a flowery accompaniment.  After passing Scoberry Bridge and Wynch Bridge (the world's first suspension bridge erected in 1830) we reached Low Force and it was magnificent with water raging over the rocks and boulders.Onwards and upwards past Holwick Head Bridge and we entered Upper Teesdale National Nature Reserve. The path was flanked by twisted, stunted Juniper trees as we approached the highlight of today's walk - High Force.  If you haven't seen it you must go.  We could hear it a long time before we saw it, then we could feel it through our feet and, finally, there it was in all its glory - a roaring, awe-inspring sight.  By the way, being on the national trail we did not have to pay to view the falls.  Then we were off again in to the wonderful countryside of Teesdale.  We soon reached Cronkley Bridge and crossed the River Tees to strike off over the moors to Westgate.

This is where we went awry.  We crossed the B6277 and searched for a footpath to Hanging Shaw.  We eventually found it after having to retrace our steps along the road.  However, the gate to the path was locked and there was no sign of a visible path across the meadow.  We walked further along the B road and up a minor road to pass a school looking for where the path came out.  We could not find it so I walked over to the school just as the children and their teacher were coming out into the playground carrying water pistols and washing up bowls full of water ready for a water fight.  They were all v. excited as it was the last day of term.  The teacher didn't know where Hanging Shaw was but the children did.  So off we went but we still could not see the path, eventually we found a ladder stile -which didn't have a footpath sign, and then proceeded with difficulty through a field with horses, across another field towards a ruined barn to reach a locked gate.  There then followed a frustrating time - ladder stiles with rungs removed, barbed wire along tops of locked gates, oodles of mud and cows.  After two hours of not getting anywhere fast we decided to retreat as it was now 4 o'clock and we still had 8 or so miles to walk over very juicy moorland.  We walked down a country road and eventually arrived back at the High Force Hotel where we thought we could have a drink and ring for a taxi.  How wrong can you be?  The pub was shut and the place was full of midges.  Whilst we waited we met a guy who worked for the Roby Estate which owns the falls, the hotel and all the land and farms in the area.  We related our woes to him and he said he would pass on our story to the estate managers.  It seems the Roby Estate is very keen to have walkers passing through the area but many of the estate farm tenants are not.  They are making their displeasure known by wilful neglect and vandalism of the footpaths, signs, stiles and gates.  I must say I have never experienced anything like it.  We knew we were on the right path more or less but the local farmers were making it very difficult.

Eventually the taxi came and drove us over the moor we were looking for earlier and deposited us at the most loveliest B&B I have ever stayed in - Hill House East in Westgate-in-Weardale.  It was wonderful.  Wood burning stove to place our boots besides, chickens laying eggs for our breakfast, beautiful views up and down Weardale and perfect hosts.  Goodnight. 

Day 5

Bowes to Middleton-in-Teesdale (July 2012)
12 1/2 miles
Weather - No rain!  Sunny intervals and a light breeze

Hannah's Meadow

A much easier day today - especially as it did not rain.  We had a good breakfast at the farmhouse and we were walking the trail by half past eight with above us a blue sky - the first since Day 1.  We headed down a lane past Ministry of Defence land with warning signs telling us to NOT stray from the path or pick anything up as it may explode...  We were soon crossing moorland again with a number of streams in full flood to negotiate and extremely boggy paths to plod along.  Today was a day to practise what our guide book calls the 'dying art of tussock hopping'. 

We passed a beautiful thatched cottage - an unusual sight on the moors.  We said good morning to the chickens who had a lovely railway carriage to live in.  Then it was more bog and peat and mud and streams and water, water everywhere. I am glad to say my wonderful Alt-bergs were doing sterling service - no soggy socks.  However, we were looking very, very muddy.  Then over Cotherstone Moor and on to Goldsborough (a rocky outcrop which reminded me of Edoras) accompanied by the sound of RAF fighter jets storming overhead and making a racket.  

We approached the three reservoirs - Blackton, Hury and Balderhead which were very peaceful and remote (the jets had stopped for lunch).  Next point of interest was Hannah's Meadow nature reserve.  The meadow was in full summer glory with gorgeous flowers, grasses, butterflies and bees.  Next we were walking over Mickleton Moor and enjoying more bog.  We passed a group of RAF cadets who did not look too happy - they were covered in mud and looking knackered.  I can certainly say I have never experienced such a sodden, mucky walk which is saying something when one of my regular haunts is Kinder Scout.  We stopped for lunch in a meadow at How and then it was onwards through fields, more meadows and moor until we eventually crested a hill and there was Middleton-in-Teesdale below us.  A very welcome sight and we had a lovely walk down into the valley along grass tracks and past a bronze age mound - Kirkcarrion.  The town is splendid - a small,  perfectly formed market town with a wide main street and interesting buildings - shops, houses, banks, a hotel, a water fountain, a Co-op (good old Co-op - so handy for buying lunch).

Tea in Middleton-in-Teesdale

One of the most useful features of the high street was the chemist and what is more, it was open.  We stocked up on medical supplies - plasters, tape, melolin pads, tissues, bandage - that would keep us going until Hexham at least.  We also found a cafe where we sat outside in the sunshine and enjoyed a pot of tea and chocolate cake - I think we deserved it.   We stayed at the Teesdale Hotel - the staff did not flinch when we walked into reception mud splattered, sweaty and carrying our mud caked boots.  Indeed, our boots were taken from us and paced in the boiler room to dry overnight.

Kirkcarrion

We saw a fair amount of wildlife today - a weasel, curlews, lapwings, oystercatchers, rabbit.  Oh - and we saw the sun which was grand.

Day 4

Gunnerside to Bowes (July 2012)
17 1/2 miles
Weather - windy, squally showers and sunshine at the end of the day

I had the best night's sleep of the trip so far at our B&B in a very comfortable bed.  Also had the best meal of the trek in the King's Head last night - mmmm.  We were on the trail by half past eight and we walked through the soggy Muker Meadows by the River Swale which was as full as a mop head and was rushing by furiously.  It was a windy start by the river and soon blew the cobwebs away.  We reached the hamlet of Ivelet and then continued along the river bank.  We crossed the river on Ramps Holme Bridge and paused to watch the water raging beneath us and then we continued to follow the dark, peaty river.  The valley narrowed and became more slippery and soggy underfoot.  I startled a snipe - well, maybe it startled me.. and we saw many rabbits.  We passed ruined barns and houses and then on the other bank we could see the remains of an old mine.  We passed walkers going in the other direction but they were too far away to greet.  The path became rocky as we passed through a woodland with the river still roaring besides us.  We reached Keld and joined the Pennine Way path.  We did not have time to visit the village although we knew there would have been tea and cake.  With firm resolve we soldiered on - it was exciting to be on the hallowed path  and I hope to walk it one of these summers.....

We crossed the river again and began a steep climb on to Blackmoor.  Now we were on proper moorland - the path was boggy.   Apart from a road down in the valley below us there were no signs of modern life - no pylons, buildings, planes, cars - bliss. There were lots of  gates to pass through rather than stiles and we saw quite a few mountain bikers - going to be controversial here - they do churn up the path - not sure it's a good thing allowing them free access up there.  We now had intermittent rain  so out came the waterproofs again. Curlews and oyster catchers were wheeling and calling above us and the views were panoramic and incredible - the most remote, beautiful place with moorland stretching out from us in all directions with one single track road down in the valley which snaked its way to Tan Hill and beyond.

A mile before Tan Hill the rain started pouring down and the wind blew wildly - marvellous.  It was a fitting piece of weather for us as we walked the last mile to the refuge of the Tan Hill Inn.  It is the highest, most remote pub in England and it sits right on the border of Yorkshire and County Durham.  What a place!  We were swept in by a gust of wind and were greeted by a big stone fireplace with a roaring fire (after all - it was July), a dog curled up in front of the fire, a cat sat on the bar, good beer and food.  Half a bitter, a bowl of soup and a helping of sticky toffee pudding later we reluctantly put the waterproofs back on and headed out into the weather as we still had 8 miles to go before we reached Bowes.

We had a decision to make - the official route crossed the moorlands and the guide book advised that if the weather was particularly wet then take the road route - Sleightholme Moor Road.  We decided to take the road as the section of moorland we had just crossed to reach Tan Hill had been what AW called 'juicy'.  The road route was at least dry but it was tough on tired legs and feet.  It seemed to take an age to walk as there were few features to see.  We saw no buildings or people and not even a bird.  Eventually we could spy Bowes in the distance.  We were both suffering with sore feet and wished a car would pass us and maybe we could cadge a lift - I know, a terrible admission to make but we were suffering.  Just before we reached Bowes a car did pass us and pulled over.  The driver introduced himself as Andy Edge and he asked if we were doing the Pennine Journey!  It seems he is an artist who owns a gallery in Bowes and he is involved with The Wainwright Society.  He is busy painting scenes depicting our walk and he walked AW's original route on the 80th anniversary of AW completing it.  Andy was keen to hear what we thought of the walk as not many people have done it yet - me and Mrs C are pioneers...

We crossed the River Greta on a fine bridge and entered the village with it's beautiful stone buildings - there were no shops but there was a working men's club and the Unicorn Inn which was once a major coaching inn.  And of course there was a ruined Norman castle built on the site of a Roman fort.  Bowes was a strategically placed village on the main pass across the Pennines.  We walked to the pub to get dinner but it was shut.  Mrs C rang our B&B and the landlady very kindly came and picked us up as her place was another mile out of the village.  After a full day's walking another mile seemed too far!  Our landlady was lovely.  She is a farmer's wife and runs her B&B in the farmhouse.  The house is a beautiful early Victorian building with a grand hall and large, high ceiling rooms.  Our room had a fantastic view over the village, castle and moors beyond.  Mrs T brought us a large pot of tea and a plate full of homemade cake - marvellous. 

Day 3

Buckden to Gunnerside (July 2012)
20 miles
Weather - overcast to start, clouds just touching the fell tops, some sunshine and then rain in the afternoon and evening

We were on our way by a quarter to eight as we had an extra 3 miles to walk to get back on to the trail.  We soon reached Cray and toiling on our first steep climb of the day - Kidstones Fell which gave us great views of Wharfdale and Buckden behind.  AW called this track 'a walker's way par excellence'.  It was a stiff climb but worth it as the views opened up and we could see where we had been and where we were going.  We missed a turning so did not see Stalling Busk and its unusual church.  The trail took us past Semer Water and then along the banks of England's shortest river at 2 1/2 miles - the River Bain.  The river led us to Bainbridge via the remains of a Roman fort and fantastic views of Wharfdale.  We ate our lunch in the middle of the village green by the medieval stocks and surrounded by 18th and 19th century houses.

After lunch we walked 1 1/2 miles to beautiful Askrigg where we saw the vet's house used in the BBC series 'All Creatures Great and Small'.  Then we set off on the last 6 miles to Gunnerside via a steep climb to Askrigg Common.  We had excellent views until the rain started and we made our steadily downhill to the village.  We had dinner at the The Kings Head - a  most excellent hostelry with fine beers, wine and, most importantly, food.  Oh - and they have a menu for dogs.  The  fire was lit and we sat by it as it was very cold again - hard to believe we were walking in the middle of July....

Day 2

Horton-in-Ribblesdale to Buckden (July 2012)
13 3/4 miles plus 3 mile walk to B&B
Weather - low cloud, rain and then more rain, cool and windy on tops

After our delicious breakfast we were on the path by 9 o'clock  We couldn't see the tops as they were covered in low cloud.  As we ascended the hillside the rain started and out came the waterproofs.  We were close to Penyghent but could not see its magnificence through the murky clouds.  We reached Hull Pot which was a spectacular sight - a gaping chasm opened up before us and we watched the water hurtling down into the depths.  Why anyone would consider going down there I do not know - it looks to me like orcs might be lurking...  Due to the poor visibility we then had difficulty locating the stile promised to us by the guide book.  Another group of Duke of Edinburgh types were also looking for it.  We located a patched-up gap in the wall and we all managed to scramble through; passing sacks, sticks and maps and then helping each negotiate the barbed wire and nettles.  We left the girls and continued on our way up to Foxup Moor and Foxup Lane.  Visibility was now down to 20 yards, the rain was pouring down and it was very windy but we were thoroughly enjoying ourselves.  We were dry and warm (so far), we had the path to ourselves (we soon lost the DofE gang) and it was a joy to know we had a whole week of walking still to go.  We splashed our way by Plover Hill and Penyghent which were lost in the cloud towards Foxup and Halton Gill.  

At Foxup we met two teachers sat in a car and surrounded by maps and flasks of tea who asked us if we'd seen a group of 8 girls on the trail.  'Yes' we said, 'they're some way behind us but on the right track'. We then walked along a road to Halton Gill wishing we could find somewhere dry to eat some lunch.  Then, as if by magic, a barn appeared with a covered area at the side with chairs and a view.  Voila!  Our wish came true and we munched our sandwiches whilst watching the weather from  a lovely dry spot  and as we sat and ate house martins flitted in and out of the rafters above us. 

Next it was onwards and upwards, literally.  1000 feet straight up by Halton Beck to Horse Head.  The clouds came down even more, the wind was stronger, the rain fell heavier and visibility was down to 5 yards.  We did not see the promised fantastic views -  not even the trig point.  A gradual descent then led us to Yockenthwaite in  Langstrothdale. (where our B&B was located(  We decided to walk to Buckden as it was still early and see if we could get some tea and cake,  We walked along the banks of the River Wharf, a route we had both done before as we were now following The Dales Way . We spotted house martins, swifts, yellow wagtails,pied wagtails and assorted ducks.  

The path was muddy and slippery so we decided to leave the riverbank at Hubberholme and walk along the road to Buckden.  The road was closed to cars as the water board were laying water pipes to the local villages.  Until  now all the properties in the area were off grid.The Geordie navvies guided us past the machinery and trenches and we arrived in Buckden to find the tea room still open.  Cake and tea consumed gratefully whist we gently steamed - boots and waterproofs were dumped outside.  Next to the tea room was the village store which unfortunately was closed.  However, the lad from the tea rooms was the brother of the shop owner - he very kindly opened up the shop and provided us with lunch for the next day - good lad.  No other places to buy food - even the three local pubs were closed (this was a Monday).  We then  walked the 3 miles back to our B&B and the less said about that place the better...

Day 1

Settle to Horton - in - Ribblesdale (July 2012)
7 1/4 miles
Weather - sunny, then cloudy, stiff breeze on the tops, warm in the valleys

A good breakfast and we were off on our new adventure into the hills. The trains were on time but you do need to be on your toes at Manchester Airport railway station as the trains are liable to switch platforms at the last moment.  I've a feeling the railway staff do this to make the working day more interesting.  There were lots of people looking bewitched, bothered and bewildered as they struggled to carry their luggage and find their elusive, slippery, platform switching trains. Once on the correct train we met a Californian couple who were off to Lytham for the Open Golf tournament - I wonder what they thought of the chaos... We had one change at Preston which went surprisingly smoothly as we stepped off one train straight on to the next.  Carrying just one ruck sack and no extra luggage is proving to be a boon.

We arrived in Settle in fine sunshine to find the town full of bikers - including a chapter of Hells' Angels called Satan's Helpers. There wasn't a lot of Devil worshipping going on but there was plenty of tea and cake worshipping in the Naked Man Cafe.  After some tea and cake we were off up the steep path of Constitution Hill and soon we were both hot and blowing like a pair of steam engines. The Pennine Journey makes good use of the many existing paths and here we were following the Pennine Bridleway - a path we were familiar with from last year's epic walk A Dales High Way 

We walked through Langcliffe which is a typical Yorkshire Dales village.  The church was serving teas and they had a bric a brac stall but we had no time to browse or spare capacity to carry interesting purchases.We then carried on to Stainforth down a steep and rocky path and attempted to ford the river by the handily placed stepping stones.  Anyone who knows me well will know my aversion to stepping stones and these were no exception.  Discretion, as always, is the better part of valour and we took a detour over a handy bridge...  In my defence the river was quite high and one of the stones had been swept down stream.  After Stainforth we were walking over rolling moorland with limestone outcrops.  Mrs C helped a Duke of Edinburgh group with their navigation.  They were looking for Malham but were heading for Settle.  Our next encounter was a herd of cows with calves but we manfully strode through the field and skirted round as many as we could.  Of course, most of them had decided to have a meeting by the stile...

PenyGent was in full view now and looking magnificent and moody.  For a change it didn't have it's usual mantle of cloud.  We continued our walk in the warm sunshine along byways, moorland paths and over a lot of stiles.  We saw cranesbill, clover, thistle, red campion and buttercups in the hedges.  We saw a pair of curlews who flew very close and I suspect we were near their nesting chicks.  We also saw wheatears, swifts, crows, wagtails and rabbits.

We arrived in Horton late afternoon and retired to the Golden Lion for a celebratory glass of wine - day one done and dusted.  We were staying at Broadcroft House B&B which is a splendid establishment.  A beautiful room with bathrobes and slippers!  Top tip from Mrs C today was 'How to wash clothes whilst having a shower' - put your clothes in the shower tray whilst you shower and hey presto the clothes get washed whilst you do!  Second top tip of the day from Mrs C.  'How to help your washed clothes to dry' - roll clothes in a towel for a few minutes and this will get rid of excess water - brilliant!