Day 14

Kirkland to Appleby (August 2013)
11 1/2 miles
Weather - Dry, overcast, warm and rainy at the end of the day

Our last day for this section of the walk.  We were driven back to Kirkland after breakfast and we were walking by 10:00am.  We did not follow the exact path out of Kirkland but it was close enough.  Just as we passed a house at Wythwaite we met two gentlemen.  They asked us where we were heading and were very interested to hear we were walking the Pennine Journey as they had just been talking about it. (There is a PJ waymarker just here).The two gents were locals and one lived at Wythwaite House.  They were full of advice about the next few miles.
We were keen to see the Hanging Gardens of Mark Anthony which are marked on the map.  Well, we saw them but they are not very hanging or wall like - more like a bit of a ditch...

In the next field we encountered our arch enemies - bulls, cows and calves - a large herd spread all over the field.  We ventured across and just as we got past them all they all started moving.  We walked calmly but purposefully to the stile and made a sharp exit over it.  We now had to cross Crowdundle Beck where two bridges have been washed away in recent years.  We did not know if a third bridge had been erected yet - the two gentlemen of Wythwaite assured us it had and it was there.  It is known locally as the Duke of Edinburgh's bridge as it was erected after a very irate group of Duke of Edinburgh teenagers objected very strongly to the lack of a bridge when they had to cross the beck and they had to do a detour of a mile or so.  A few weeks later the new bridge miraculously appeared. 

The next stage took us across fields, stiles, through gates, along farm tracks and paths to the village of Milburn.  Milburn is an example of a fortified medieval village and it has a giant maypole on the very large village green.  It's a beautiful and interesting place.  We sat on a bench by the green and had a snack whilst four farm lads and a sheepdog trundled past on a quad bike - I did not know you could get so many on one!  We departed Milburn over Stank Beck and headed for Knock where we had lunch sat on another conveniently placed bench.  A very quiet place but we chatted to a resident who had just returned from a trip to Appleby.  He had a lovely, well-behaved dog. We then got a bit lost in Milburn Grange as I missed a stile and sent us off floundering over a very boggy field full of cows for twenty minutes. Mrs C saved the day when we retraced our steps and found the stile.

Dufton was the next village.  Another trip down memory lane for Mrs C as Dufton is on the Pennine Way and has a youth hostel, a pub and now, a tea room.  Another lovely village with a green, a fountain, chickens scratching around and red sandstone cottages..  Only three miles to Appley now.  We continued through fields, by streams, through some beautiful woodlands.  The Pennine fells were with us, just to the left and it was splendid to be amongst it all.  Through out this walk we had been promised red squirrels but again we did not see any.  We did see lots of pheasants today - they scattered in all directions as we plodded through the woods.  A dip under the busy A66 and then we were in Appleby.

We felt a celebration was called for so we adjourned to the Midland Hotel next to Appleby Station to enjoy a G&T outside.  I popped in to the loo and when I came back Mrs C had acquired a dog on a lead.  Probably the funniest moment of the walk.  I looked at the dog and then at Mrs C.  She looked back at me as did the dog.  Once I'd stopped laughing I asked why and how?  It seems a gentleman arrived and asked if Mrs C liked dogs.  Mrs C said "No" then the gent gave Mrs C the lead and said, "I won't be long, just going to buy a pint.  He's no bother, he's seventeen and blind as a bat." 

We headed into town to change and shower for the evening.  It was Bank Holiday weekend so everywhere was very busy.  We decide to head back to the Midland Hotel and have dinner there....no dogs this time.

It has been a most excellent week. I am looking forward to the last stage next year - Appleby to Settle.
 The highlights...

• Hadrian's Wall - 2nd day Once Brewed to Greenhead
• The Italians
• Sycamore Gap
• Bleckinsop Castle
• East House - walled gardens
• Bats flying round me outside Kellah B&B
• Lambley Viaduct
• Climbing Cross Fell
• The view from Cross Fell
• Seeing an Adder
• The curious incident of the dog at the pub

Day 13

Alston to Kirkland (August 2013)
15 miles
Weather - war, sunny intervals, rain on Cross Fell, no wind

An early breakfast this morning made by our lovely landlady Pat - porridge and poached eggs and home made jam.  We were on the road by 8:15 and it was a lovely, clear morning.  We followed the Pennine Way out of town past the Youth Hostel and by the banks of the River Tyne.  The first four miles were idyllic - river on the right, farmland all around and nobody about - just us and the sheep.  We remembered to turn and wave at the white house at Low Nest and hoped that Pat was looking out for us on the other side of the valley. 

We arrived in Garrigill and had a drink and a snack ready for the climb up Cross Fell.  The village is perfect - a post office, a pub, a green and...public toilets. 

Then we were off along the Corpse Road to Cross Fell.  A steady climb out of the valley with views of the moors opening up around us.  We passed old lead mining areas with piles of spoil and gaping holes.  We could hear guns firing so we knew the grouse hunters were around.  Then we saw all their vehicles parked up - mostly Range Rovers.  We saw lots of grouse but the hunters were over the moor, a 1/4 mile away.  Intermittent rain fell and then a downpour arrived but no wind and fairly good visibility and still quite warm.  I guess we were very lucky that the weather was being so kind to us.  We trudged through Black Cut which had extensive mine workings and spoil heaps from the old mines.  Eventually we spotted Greg's Hut - our lunch stop.  We had great views across the moors and saw only two other people out walking.  After Greg's Hut we left the Pennine Way.  We were not visiting the summit of Cross Fell as we had to be in Kirkland by 5:00.  We crossed the shoulder of the fell and started the decent to Kirkland via an old miners track.  It was a long, slow slog down the hill but we had the most splendid view!  Crossing the watershed the weather cleared and we could see for miles - the Lakeland fells, the Solway Firth and Scotland beyond - marvellous.  I loved Cross Fell and walking across it was another walking ambition realised.  It's vast, brooding, stark and desolate.  It's a no frills landscape with place names to match - Black Cut, Leadgate, Low Sikes.

We arrived in Kirkland at 4:00 which gave us plenty of time to sit a spell and have a snack before our taxi picked us up to drive us into Appleby to our next B&B.  The sun shone, we watched the tractors coming and going with their loads of  silage and  we chatted about our day's walking.  A lovely remote spot - just a couple of farms, some cottages and a church.  We arrived at  Bongate House B&B and found we had the same room as last time we visited whilst walking The Dales High Way.  A great B&B and the owners are fellow Mancunians.

Day 12

Kellah to Alston (August 2013)
13 miles
Weather:  cloudy, sunny intervals, showers, cleared by evening

A good breakfast at Kellah B&B to set us up for the day.  We rejoined the Pennine Way to begin but we immediately went wrong!  We turned left too soon after Batey Shield and walked down a deep clough which we then had to clamber out of - very embarrassing.  After twenty minutes we were back on the right track and trudged over a boggy moor with a slight detour to avoid cows. At Lambley we followed the path under the impressive Lambley Viaduct and then we were on the South Tyne Trail to Slaggyford and beyond.

A scenic walk with woodland, the River Tyne and occasional glimpses of the moors which were looking their best with the purple heather on display.  During this stage the path runs parallel with the A689 and the Pennine Way.  At Burnstones we stopped for lunch,  At Slaggyford,which was once a thriving centre for nail making, we left the South Tyne Trail and rejoined the Pennine Way.  By this stage Mrs C was very tired after a poor night's sleep and suffering from a blistered heel.I knew we were approaching the South Tynedale Railway and I thought that maybe she could hitch a ride to Alston.  At this exact moment a father and son appeared on the path.  We chatted, as you do, and they told us they were waiting for the train to depart at the station - bingo!  Quicker than you can say, "Narrow gauge railway", I had Mrs C installed on the train, fair paid and ticket clutched, rattling along in a carriage off to Alston.  I waved her off and continued with the walk.

At this point the official route continues along the Pennine Way to Alston - 5 1/2 miles.  The easier, shorter route was 4 miles alongside the railway.  I took the easier option as it was quicker and cow free.  A pleasant walk - I had the river on one side, with bridges to cross, birds to look at.  I saw a fallow deer scamper over the railway line as the train was coming along.  I arrived in Alston as a shower passed overhead.  I visited the town hall and a helpful lady gave me directions to our B&B Greycroft B&B.  Jane was already installed when I arrived and resting.  I had tea and homemade cake with our landlady in the lounge.   A shower, a change of clothes and we headed out for dinner at Alston House where we had a tasty meal.

Day 11

Once Brewed to Kellah (August 2013)
13 miles
Weather - cloudy to start, clearing later with sunny intervals and a warm breeze

On the trail by 9:00am and just us on the path.  This section is very up and very down so my trusty stick came in very handy today.  Windshield Crags came and went and we were buzzed by fighter jets.  As the morning progressed we met more walkers who were all very happy to chat.  We met a couple from Cannock who were bikers.  We met the Italians again - the young lady was not feeling so good and was planning to catch the bus at Greenhead.  Her partner was looking super stylish with his mini-sou'wester hat.  We stopped at Cawfield Crags to use the handy loos and then before we knew it we reached Walltown Crags where we had lunch.  There were toilets (spoilt today) and a shop selling tea, ices-cream, sandwiches, gifts, postcards and blister plasters (they know their market).  We took the opportunity to buy and write postcards whilst enjoying a cup of tea.  The very kind lady running the shop said she would post the cards - a lovely lady and a lovely place.  

Next on the trail was a romantic ruin - Thirlwall Castle.  This was closely followed by a walk into Greenhead via a path flanked by a river,  railway and wild raspberries.  At Greenhead we left the Hadrian's Wall Trail and had to negotiate crossing the fast and furious A69.  We waited for a lull in the traffic and scuttled over accompanied by a friendly wave and blow of a horn  from a lorry driver.  Up an embankment to a stile and our first encounter with a Pennine Journey waymarker.  The next section was vague.  We were looking for a ladder stile, half right at the end of a row of Hawthornes.  We eventually found it after wading through long marsh grass and tussocks with no discernible track.  

For the next section of the trail we re-joined the Pennine Way which I do not think we had encountered since Tan Hill last year.  It was all going very well for five minutes, then we saw the cows, then we saw the calves and finally we saw the bull.  They were all stood on the path ahead between us and the next stile. 

Now, usually bulls in fields with cows and calves do not take an interest in walkers.  This one was very interested.  He stood on the path and turned to look at us with his mean, beady eyes and his nose ring glinting.  Mrs C and I had the same thought - we looked at each other, looked at the bull and decided that this bull would not let us pass without a fight.  There was not a way round - this was a very large field.  We turned about and headed purposefully back to the last stile - let us call it a dignified retreat.  At a safe distance we consulted the map.  There did not seem to be any paths or routes to take us round this field so we decided to head back towards Greenhead to the hamlet of Bankhope and follow the minor roads to Kellah.  This was an interesting walk along a neglected, little used path.  There was a steep decent into Bankhope via negoiating a fallen tree across the path.  We were looking for the minor road to Kellah and asked two very kind gentlemen who were happy to help and gave us clear instructions whilst saying, "You're walking!  All the way to Kellah?".  We paused at Bleckinsop Castle which is a ruined castle and, by the way, is up for sale for £1.75m.  We then found the road and yomped along it for 2 1/2 miles to our next B&B at Kellah.  Obviously my  2p offering to the god Mithras, The Bull God, was not enough.  It should have been at least a goat sacrifice to make sure the path was clear of bulls across Bleckinsop Common.

We arrived at  Kellah B&B at 6:00pm and had tea and biscuits in the lounge with our landlady and two other guests, a farmer and his wife from Cork, Ireland. We had dinner at the Greenhead Hotel - lovely meal and friendly staff. 

Day 10

Walwick to Once Brewed (August 2013)
12 miles
Weather:  Strong westerly wind (17 mph), sunny intervals, slight rain showers

Oh the pure joy of waking up on a Monday morning and knowing you do not have to get up and go to work. The sheer pleasure of  a week full of walking with a good friend in a glorious place.

We enjoyed a tasty, filling breakfast with homemade jam and home grown tomatoes. We met a young Italian couple at breakfast who are walking Hadrian's Wall and followed by the West Highland Way.

We were soon back on the trail with memories, for me, of 2004.  Broccolita Fort and the Mithras temple all present and correct.  I left a votive offering at the temple - a whole 2p.  There were lots of people out walking today on this very popular trail so lots of "hellos", "good mornings", "isn't it windy!" comments. The wall was very much in evidence today along with the vallum and ditch and the ever present military road.  We had fantastic views in all directions with high, scudding clouds above us.  We stopped for lunch and met a volunteer path warden.  He has a 3km stretch to take care of and we walked along with him for a short time.  He shared lots of interesting snippets about the history of the wall.   

We tramped past mile castles and turrets today which I loved - I do enjoy a ruin.   Housesteads was busy and we walked on by - it's not free and the toilets were miles way!  Our next major milestone was the junction with the Pennine Way at Rapishaw Gap - happy memories for Mrs C.  I am very glad to report on this trip I did see and admire the Sycamore tree at Sycamore Gap.  I completely failed to look at it on my last trip as I was v. tired after a very long 18 mile day...so this time we stopped and took photos.  The excitement today was increased by seeing an adder on the path.  I just managed to get the camera out in time and take a snap -a beautiful creature. 

We arrived at Once Brewed Youth Hostel at 4:00pm just as reception was opening.  Showers, dinner booked, laundry done and journal written up - we are a well oiled machine when it comes to the end of a day's walking.  We had dinner at the hostel which was grim - my fresh fruit salad was from a tin....  We toddled off to the Twice Brewed pub which was buzzing with walkers, including the Italian couple we met at the B&B,  cyclists, diners and  day trippers  .  A lovely, sociable end to  a very enjoyable day.

Day 9

Hexham to Walwick (August 2013)
6 miles
Weather:  Sunshine and some cloud, warm

Our trains arrived on time in Hexham for the start of the second leg of our Pennine Journey. My train travelling via the east coast line and Mrs C's; the west coast.   Hugs and welcomes at the station then into town for a late lunch before we started walking.  We found a  lovely Greek cafe where we chatted and checked the maps.  We left Hexham in sunshine and hoped this was a sign of things to come after the very wet conditions of last year's walk.

River Tyne

We crossed the River Tyne over a fine bridge designed by Robert Mylne and then we were off into the hills towards Hadrian's Wall.  We ambled through the village of Accomb with it's water pump, 2 pubs and handsome stone houses.  An Alpaca farm was passed and we were eyed suspiciously by a flock of Alpacas; large and small.  Then, there it was, our first view of the wall at Plane Trees.  Our path was now following the Hadrian's Wall National Trail.. This had been my first long distance walk in 2004 - a walk I thoroughly enjoyed - even the first section through Newcastle which some people tend to be a bit sniffy about.  We had a pleasant stroll through a woodland and then a not so pleasant walk along a busy road.  The River Tyne was crossed again at Chollerford via another very fine structure by Mr Mylne.  It is a splendid bridge with a view down to the remains of the old Roman Bridge.  A left turn past Chesters Fort and a walk by a very grand entrance to a stately pile with lions and box hedging in intricate patterns.  We found out later that this was the  home of the founder of the Sage software.  We ascended Lincoln Hill and enjoyed an Eccles cake sat on a conveniently placed bench.

The Secret Garden

 
Before we had time to say, "Pennine Journey"  we had arrived at our first B&B of the trip, East House.  What a beautiful place!  It is an early Victorian, stone built house with the most amazing walled garden.  We had tea and cake in the wonderful greenhouse, with vines and figs lining the walls, whilst looking out over an orchard, vegetable garden, herbaceous borders, yew hedges and a rose garden.  There was even a  garden wall with a door - I was besides myself with joy.  Our hosts were very welcoming and our room was comfortable with an orginal fireplace to admire.  And so to bed dreaming of secret gardens with mysterious doors to venture through....

The Dovecot at East House, Walwick