Day 4

Gunnerside to Bowes (July 2012)
17 1/2 miles
Weather - windy, squally showers and sunshine at the end of the day

I had the best night's sleep of the trip so far at our B&B in a very comfortable bed.  Also had the best meal of the trek in the King's Head last night - mmmm.  We were on the trail by half past eight and we walked through the soggy Muker Meadows by the River Swale which was as full as a mop head and was rushing by furiously.  It was a windy start by the river and soon blew the cobwebs away.  We reached the hamlet of Ivelet and then continued along the river bank.  We crossed the river on Ramps Holme Bridge and paused to watch the water raging beneath us and then we continued to follow the dark, peaty river.  The valley narrowed and became more slippery and soggy underfoot.  I startled a snipe - well, maybe it startled me.. and we saw many rabbits.  We passed ruined barns and houses and then on the other bank we could see the remains of an old mine.  We passed walkers going in the other direction but they were too far away to greet.  The path became rocky as we passed through a woodland with the river still roaring besides us.  We reached Keld and joined the Pennine Way path.  We did not have time to visit the village although we knew there would have been tea and cake.  With firm resolve we soldiered on - it was exciting to be on the hallowed path  and I hope to walk it one of these summers.....

We crossed the river again and began a steep climb on to Blackmoor.  Now we were on proper moorland - the path was boggy.   Apart from a road down in the valley below us there were no signs of modern life - no pylons, buildings, planes, cars - bliss. There were lots of  gates to pass through rather than stiles and we saw quite a few mountain bikers - going to be controversial here - they do churn up the path - not sure it's a good thing allowing them free access up there.  We now had intermittent rain  so out came the waterproofs again. Curlews and oyster catchers were wheeling and calling above us and the views were panoramic and incredible - the most remote, beautiful place with moorland stretching out from us in all directions with one single track road down in the valley which snaked its way to Tan Hill and beyond.

A mile before Tan Hill the rain started pouring down and the wind blew wildly - marvellous.  It was a fitting piece of weather for us as we walked the last mile to the refuge of the Tan Hill Inn.  It is the highest, most remote pub in England and it sits right on the border of Yorkshire and County Durham.  What a place!  We were swept in by a gust of wind and were greeted by a big stone fireplace with a roaring fire (after all - it was July), a dog curled up in front of the fire, a cat sat on the bar, good beer and food.  Half a bitter, a bowl of soup and a helping of sticky toffee pudding later we reluctantly put the waterproofs back on and headed out into the weather as we still had 8 miles to go before we reached Bowes.

We had a decision to make - the official route crossed the moorlands and the guide book advised that if the weather was particularly wet then take the road route - Sleightholme Moor Road.  We decided to take the road as the section of moorland we had just crossed to reach Tan Hill had been what AW called 'juicy'.  The road route was at least dry but it was tough on tired legs and feet.  It seemed to take an age to walk as there were few features to see.  We saw no buildings or people and not even a bird.  Eventually we could spy Bowes in the distance.  We were both suffering with sore feet and wished a car would pass us and maybe we could cadge a lift - I know, a terrible admission to make but we were suffering.  Just before we reached Bowes a car did pass us and pulled over.  The driver introduced himself as Andy Edge and he asked if we were doing the Pennine Journey!  It seems he is an artist who owns a gallery in Bowes and he is involved with The Wainwright Society.  He is busy painting scenes depicting our walk and he walked AW's original route on the 80th anniversary of AW completing it.  Andy was keen to hear what we thought of the walk as not many people have done it yet - me and Mrs C are pioneers...

We crossed the River Greta on a fine bridge and entered the village with it's beautiful stone buildings - there were no shops but there was a working men's club and the Unicorn Inn which was once a major coaching inn.  And of course there was a ruined Norman castle built on the site of a Roman fort.  Bowes was a strategically placed village on the main pass across the Pennines.  We walked to the pub to get dinner but it was shut.  Mrs C rang our B&B and the landlady very kindly came and picked us up as her place was another mile out of the village.  After a full day's walking another mile seemed too far!  Our landlady was lovely.  She is a farmer's wife and runs her B&B in the farmhouse.  The house is a beautiful early Victorian building with a grand hall and large, high ceiling rooms.  Our room had a fantastic view over the village, castle and moors beyond.  Mrs T brought us a large pot of tea and a plate full of homemade cake - marvellous.