A Pennine Journey: Day 5

Bowes to Middleton-in-Teesdale (July 2012)
12 1/2 miles
Weather - No rain! Sunny intervals and a light breeze

Hannah's Meadow

A much easier day today - especially as it did not rain. We had a good breakfast at the farmhouse and we were walking the trail by half past eight with above us a blue sky - the first since Day 1. We headed down a lane past Ministry of Defence land with warning signs telling us to NOT stray from the path or pick anything up as it may explode... We were soon crossing moorland again with a number of streams in full flood to negotiate and extremely boggy paths to plod along. Today was a day to practise what our guide book calls the 'dying art of tussock hopping'.

We passed a beautiful thatched cottage - an unusual sight on the moors. We said good morning to the chickens who had a lovely railway carriage to live in. Then it was more bog and peat and mud and streams and water, water everywhere. I am glad to say my wonderful Alt-bergs were doing sterling service - no soggy socks. However, we were looking very, very muddy. Then over Cotherstone Moor and on to Goldsborough (a rocky outcrop which reminded me of Edoras) accompanied by the sound of RAF fighter jets storming overhead and making a racket.

We approached the three reservoirs - Blackton, Hury and Balderhead which were very peaceful and remote (the jets had stopped for lunch). Next point of interest was Hannah's Meadow nature reserve. The meadow was in full summer glory with gorgeous flowers, grasses, butterflies and bees. Next we were walking over Mickleton Moor and enjoying more bog. We passed a group of RAF cadets who did not look too happy - they were covered in mud and looking knackered. I can certainly say I have never experienced such a sodden, mucky walk which is saying something when one of my regular haunts is Kinder Scout. We stopped for lunch in a meadow at How and then it was onwards through fields, more meadows and moor until we eventually crested a hill and there was Middleton-in-Teesdale below us. A very welcome sight and we had a lovely walk down into the valley along grass tracks and past a bronze age mound - Kirkcarrion. The town is splendid - a small, perfectly formed market town with a wide main street and interesting buildings - shops, houses, banks, a hotel, a water fountain, a Co-op (good old Co-op - so handy for buying lunch).

Tea in Middleton-in-Teesdale

One of the most useful features of the high street was the chemist and what is more, it was open. We stocked up on medical supplies - plasters, tape, melolin pads, tissues, bandage - that would keep us going until Hexham at least. We also found a cafe where we sat outside in the sunshine and enjoyed a pot of tea and chocolate cake - I think we deserved it. We stayed at the Teesdale Hotel - the staff did not flinch when we walked into reception mud splattered, sweaty and carrying our mud caked boots. Indeed, our boots were taken from us and paced in the boiler room to dry overnight.