Day 7

Westgate to Blanchland (July 2012)
10 3/4 miles
Weather -Warm sunshine

We had an excellent night's sleep and a splendid breakfast - our hosts were wonderful - and, best of all, we are staying here again  tonight! I went out to see the sheep and share some toast with them (by the way - bread was homemade and delicious).  I also thanked the chickens for the tasty eggs.  Now, today's walk.  Weardale was new territory for me and so I was excited about walking here.  Behind the house the moor we should have walked over yesterday looked incredible - remote, stark, bleak, boggy, bliss.

We followed the path out of town and we were soon on The Weardale Way which was our host path for part of today's trek.  It was a steep climb out of Westgate and, for once, the sun was shining.  We reached the top of the valley and paused to look back over the town and further to the far side of the Weardale Valley where we could still see our B&B.  Our hosts had promised to look out for us so we gave them a big wave as we crested the hill and disappeared. 

We skirted Height Quarry - a working quarry - and then we heard gun shots.  We rounded a bend in the path and laid out below and to the right of us was a line of men with shot guns and dogs.  I think they were hunting rabbits.  They saw us, they all stopped walking, called back their dogs and waited until we had passed round the next bend.  So glad they were vigilant and organised!    We followed a track which passed through a boggy redundant railway cutting and we descended the hill via Smailsburn to Rookhope.  So far the scenery had been majestic - an industrial landscape full of quarries, mine workings, old rail routes, tram ways, moors, ruined buildings, blue skies,Green grass and no rain.  It continued in this vein all day. 

We decided to take advantage of a tea and cake opportunity in the mining village called Rookhope.  We enjoyed a refreshing cuppa sat outside a pub and I'm glad we did as next we had to climb Bolt's Law Incline.  We were now deep in Lead mining country and this was a track going 600 feet straight up along the Sustrans C2C cycle trail.  All was fine until we reached the summit and then misread the instructions and missed a path.  We continued along the main track and realised after 20  minutes we had gone awry.  We retraced our steps and found what we thought was the right path but soon realised it was not.  The path soon fizzled out and we found ourselves doing acrobatics and tussock hopping along a very, very juicy non existent path.  We could see where we needed to be - two old lead mining chimneys in the distance but to get to them we had to cross a very boggy, wet, section of moorland.  We followed a fence with the idea that it must eventually hit and a path.  Well it almost did.  Eventually we were back on the official route via some fence climbing, grouse scaring, swearing and a feeling of slight panic.  At least it was a sunny day and we could see where we wanted to be but even now looking back at the maps I cannot see where we went wrong!  Back on track we walked between the two chimneys and down the hill towards Ramshaw.  Again this path was indistinct and extremely wet and boggy:  basically the whole hill seemed to be a river and we were wading through it and this time we were scattering rabbits in all directions. 

We eventually reached Blanchland which AW waxed lyrical about on his original walk.  The tea room was still open and so, of course, we took advantage.  Our Host from the B&B came to pick us up and drove us back for our second night's stay - very few B&B's round here.  When we arrived back at the B&B a drink was offered, we were expecting tea but instead we gratefully accepted Gin and Tonics - Colonial style.  We enjoyed them sat in the summerhouse and watched the sun go down - Cheers!

Day 6

Middleton-in-Teesdale to Westgate-in-Weardale (July 2012)
12 3/4 miles
Weather - warm with sunny intervals and a glorious sunset

We started today's journey along the banks of the River Tees which was in full, rushing, gushing state.  We toddled along an easy riverbank path through meadows and woodland with purple foxgloves, blue cranesbill, yellow buttercups and creamy meadowsweet as a flowery accompaniment.  After passing Scoberry Bridge and Wynch Bridge (the world's first suspension bridge erected in 1830) we reached Low Force and it was magnificent with water raging over the rocks and boulders.Onwards and upwards past Holwick Head Bridge and we entered Upper Teesdale National Nature Reserve. The path was flanked by twisted, stunted Juniper trees as we approached the highlight of today's walk - High Force.  If you haven't seen it you must go.  We could hear it a long time before we saw it, then we could feel it through our feet and, finally, there it was in all its glory - a roaring, awe-inspring sight.  By the way, being on the national trail we did not have to pay to view the falls.  Then we were off again in to the wonderful countryside of Teesdale.  We soon reached Cronkley Bridge and crossed the River Tees to strike off over the moors to Westgate.

This is where we went awry.  We crossed the B6277 and searched for a footpath to Hanging Shaw.  We eventually found it after having to retrace our steps along the road.  However, the gate to the path was locked and there was no sign of a visible path across the meadow.  We walked further along the B road and up a minor road to pass a school looking for where the path came out.  We could not find it so I walked over to the school just as the children and their teacher were coming out into the playground carrying water pistols and washing up bowls full of water ready for a water fight.  They were all v. excited as it was the last day of term.  The teacher didn't know where Hanging Shaw was but the children did.  So off we went but we still could not see the path, eventually we found a ladder stile -which didn't have a footpath sign, and then proceeded with difficulty through a field with horses, across another field towards a ruined barn to reach a locked gate.  There then followed a frustrating time - ladder stiles with rungs removed, barbed wire along tops of locked gates, oodles of mud and cows.  After two hours of not getting anywhere fast we decided to retreat as it was now 4 o'clock and we still had 8 or so miles to walk over very juicy moorland.  We walked down a country road and eventually arrived back at the High Force Hotel where we thought we could have a drink and ring for a taxi.  How wrong can you be?  The pub was shut and the place was full of midges.  Whilst we waited we met a guy who worked for the Roby Estate which owns the falls, the hotel and all the land and farms in the area.  We related our woes to him and he said he would pass on our story to the estate managers.  It seems the Roby Estate is very keen to have walkers passing through the area but many of the estate farm tenants are not.  They are making their displeasure known by wilful neglect and vandalism of the footpaths, signs, stiles and gates.  I must say I have never experienced anything like it.  We knew we were on the right path more or less but the local farmers were making it very difficult.

Eventually the taxi came and drove us over the moor we were looking for earlier and deposited us at the most loveliest B&B I have ever stayed in - Hill House East in Westgate-in-Weardale.  It was wonderful.  Wood burning stove to place our boots besides, chickens laying eggs for our breakfast, beautiful views up and down Weardale and perfect hosts.  Goodnight. 

Day 5

Bowes to Middleton-in-Teesdale (July 2012)
12 1/2 miles
Weather - No rain!  Sunny intervals and a light breeze

Hannah's Meadow

A much easier day today - especially as it did not rain.  We had a good breakfast at the farmhouse and we were walking the trail by half past eight with above us a blue sky - the first since Day 1.  We headed down a lane past Ministry of Defence land with warning signs telling us to NOT stray from the path or pick anything up as it may explode...  We were soon crossing moorland again with a number of streams in full flood to negotiate and extremely boggy paths to plod along.  Today was a day to practise what our guide book calls the 'dying art of tussock hopping'. 

We passed a beautiful thatched cottage - an unusual sight on the moors.  We said good morning to the chickens who had a lovely railway carriage to live in.  Then it was more bog and peat and mud and streams and water, water everywhere. I am glad to say my wonderful Alt-bergs were doing sterling service - no soggy socks.  However, we were looking very, very muddy.  Then over Cotherstone Moor and on to Goldsborough (a rocky outcrop which reminded me of Edoras) accompanied by the sound of RAF fighter jets storming overhead and making a racket.  

We approached the three reservoirs - Blackton, Hury and Balderhead which were very peaceful and remote (the jets had stopped for lunch).  Next point of interest was Hannah's Meadow nature reserve.  The meadow was in full summer glory with gorgeous flowers, grasses, butterflies and bees.  Next we were walking over Mickleton Moor and enjoying more bog.  We passed a group of RAF cadets who did not look too happy - they were covered in mud and looking knackered.  I can certainly say I have never experienced such a sodden, mucky walk which is saying something when one of my regular haunts is Kinder Scout.  We stopped for lunch in a meadow at How and then it was onwards through fields, more meadows and moor until we eventually crested a hill and there was Middleton-in-Teesdale below us.  A very welcome sight and we had a lovely walk down into the valley along grass tracks and past a bronze age mound - Kirkcarrion.  The town is splendid - a small,  perfectly formed market town with a wide main street and interesting buildings - shops, houses, banks, a hotel, a water fountain, a Co-op (good old Co-op - so handy for buying lunch).

Tea in Middleton-in-Teesdale

One of the most useful features of the high street was the chemist and what is more, it was open.  We stocked up on medical supplies - plasters, tape, melolin pads, tissues, bandage - that would keep us going until Hexham at least.  We also found a cafe where we sat outside in the sunshine and enjoyed a pot of tea and chocolate cake - I think we deserved it.   We stayed at the Teesdale Hotel - the staff did not flinch when we walked into reception mud splattered, sweaty and carrying our mud caked boots.  Indeed, our boots were taken from us and paced in the boiler room to dry overnight.

Kirkcarrion

We saw a fair amount of wildlife today - a weasel, curlews, lapwings, oystercatchers, rabbit.  Oh - and we saw the sun which was grand.

Day 4

Gunnerside to Bowes (July 2012)
17 1/2 miles
Weather - windy, squally showers and sunshine at the end of the day

I had the best night's sleep of the trip so far at our B&B in a very comfortable bed.  Also had the best meal of the trek in the King's Head last night - mmmm.  We were on the trail by half past eight and we walked through the soggy Muker Meadows by the River Swale which was as full as a mop head and was rushing by furiously.  It was a windy start by the river and soon blew the cobwebs away.  We reached the hamlet of Ivelet and then continued along the river bank.  We crossed the river on Ramps Holme Bridge and paused to watch the water raging beneath us and then we continued to follow the dark, peaty river.  The valley narrowed and became more slippery and soggy underfoot.  I startled a snipe - well, maybe it startled me.. and we saw many rabbits.  We passed ruined barns and houses and then on the other bank we could see the remains of an old mine.  We passed walkers going in the other direction but they were too far away to greet.  The path became rocky as we passed through a woodland with the river still roaring besides us.  We reached Keld and joined the Pennine Way path.  We did not have time to visit the village although we knew there would have been tea and cake.  With firm resolve we soldiered on - it was exciting to be on the hallowed path  and I hope to walk it one of these summers.....

We crossed the river again and began a steep climb on to Blackmoor.  Now we were on proper moorland - the path was boggy.   Apart from a road down in the valley below us there were no signs of modern life - no pylons, buildings, planes, cars - bliss. There were lots of  gates to pass through rather than stiles and we saw quite a few mountain bikers - going to be controversial here - they do churn up the path - not sure it's a good thing allowing them free access up there.  We now had intermittent rain  so out came the waterproofs again. Curlews and oyster catchers were wheeling and calling above us and the views were panoramic and incredible - the most remote, beautiful place with moorland stretching out from us in all directions with one single track road down in the valley which snaked its way to Tan Hill and beyond.

A mile before Tan Hill the rain started pouring down and the wind blew wildly - marvellous.  It was a fitting piece of weather for us as we walked the last mile to the refuge of the Tan Hill Inn.  It is the highest, most remote pub in England and it sits right on the border of Yorkshire and County Durham.  What a place!  We were swept in by a gust of wind and were greeted by a big stone fireplace with a roaring fire (after all - it was July), a dog curled up in front of the fire, a cat sat on the bar, good beer and food.  Half a bitter, a bowl of soup and a helping of sticky toffee pudding later we reluctantly put the waterproofs back on and headed out into the weather as we still had 8 miles to go before we reached Bowes.

We had a decision to make - the official route crossed the moorlands and the guide book advised that if the weather was particularly wet then take the road route - Sleightholme Moor Road.  We decided to take the road as the section of moorland we had just crossed to reach Tan Hill had been what AW called 'juicy'.  The road route was at least dry but it was tough on tired legs and feet.  It seemed to take an age to walk as there were few features to see.  We saw no buildings or people and not even a bird.  Eventually we could spy Bowes in the distance.  We were both suffering with sore feet and wished a car would pass us and maybe we could cadge a lift - I know, a terrible admission to make but we were suffering.  Just before we reached Bowes a car did pass us and pulled over.  The driver introduced himself as Andy Edge and he asked if we were doing the Pennine Journey!  It seems he is an artist who owns a gallery in Bowes and he is involved with The Wainwright Society.  He is busy painting scenes depicting our walk and he walked AW's original route on the 80th anniversary of AW completing it.  Andy was keen to hear what we thought of the walk as not many people have done it yet - me and Mrs C are pioneers...

We crossed the River Greta on a fine bridge and entered the village with it's beautiful stone buildings - there were no shops but there was a working men's club and the Unicorn Inn which was once a major coaching inn.  And of course there was a ruined Norman castle built on the site of a Roman fort.  Bowes was a strategically placed village on the main pass across the Pennines.  We walked to the pub to get dinner but it was shut.  Mrs C rang our B&B and the landlady very kindly came and picked us up as her place was another mile out of the village.  After a full day's walking another mile seemed too far!  Our landlady was lovely.  She is a farmer's wife and runs her B&B in the farmhouse.  The house is a beautiful early Victorian building with a grand hall and large, high ceiling rooms.  Our room had a fantastic view over the village, castle and moors beyond.  Mrs T brought us a large pot of tea and a plate full of homemade cake - marvellous. 

Day 3

Buckden to Gunnerside (July 2012)
20 miles
Weather - overcast to start, clouds just touching the fell tops, some sunshine and then rain in the afternoon and evening

We were on our way by a quarter to eight as we had an extra 3 miles to walk to get back on to the trail.  We soon reached Cray and toiling on our first steep climb of the day - Kidstones Fell which gave us great views of Wharfdale and Buckden behind.  AW called this track 'a walker's way par excellence'.  It was a stiff climb but worth it as the views opened up and we could see where we had been and where we were going.  We missed a turning so did not see Stalling Busk and its unusual church.  The trail took us past Semer Water and then along the banks of England's shortest river at 2 1/2 miles - the River Bain.  The river led us to Bainbridge via the remains of a Roman fort and fantastic views of Wharfdale.  We ate our lunch in the middle of the village green by the medieval stocks and surrounded by 18th and 19th century houses.

After lunch we walked 1 1/2 miles to beautiful Askrigg where we saw the vet's house used in the BBC series 'All Creatures Great and Small'.  Then we set off on the last 6 miles to Gunnerside via a steep climb to Askrigg Common.  We had excellent views until the rain started and we made our steadily downhill to the village.  We had dinner at the The Kings Head - a  most excellent hostelry with fine beers, wine and, most importantly, food.  Oh - and they have a menu for dogs.  The  fire was lit and we sat by it as it was very cold again - hard to believe we were walking in the middle of July....

Day 2

Horton-in-Ribblesdale to Buckden (July 2012)
13 3/4 miles plus 3 mile walk to B&B
Weather - low cloud, rain and then more rain, cool and windy on tops

After our delicious breakfast we were on the path by 9 o'clock  We couldn't see the tops as they were covered in low cloud.  As we ascended the hillside the rain started and out came the waterproofs.  We were close to Penyghent but could not see its magnificence through the murky clouds.  We reached Hull Pot which was a spectacular sight - a gaping chasm opened up before us and we watched the water hurtling down into the depths.  Why anyone would consider going down there I do not know - it looks to me like orcs might be lurking...  Due to the poor visibility we then had difficulty locating the stile promised to us by the guide book.  Another group of Duke of Edinburgh types were also looking for it.  We located a patched-up gap in the wall and we all managed to scramble through; passing sacks, sticks and maps and then helping each negotiate the barbed wire and nettles.  We left the girls and continued on our way up to Foxup Moor and Foxup Lane.  Visibility was now down to 20 yards, the rain was pouring down and it was very windy but we were thoroughly enjoying ourselves.  We were dry and warm (so far), we had the path to ourselves (we soon lost the DofE gang) and it was a joy to know we had a whole week of walking still to go.  We splashed our way by Plover Hill and Penyghent which were lost in the cloud towards Foxup and Halton Gill.  

At Foxup we met two teachers sat in a car and surrounded by maps and flasks of tea who asked us if we'd seen a group of 8 girls on the trail.  'Yes' we said, 'they're some way behind us but on the right track'. We then walked along a road to Halton Gill wishing we could find somewhere dry to eat some lunch.  Then, as if by magic, a barn appeared with a covered area at the side with chairs and a view.  Voila!  Our wish came true and we munched our sandwiches whilst watching the weather from  a lovely dry spot  and as we sat and ate house martins flitted in and out of the rafters above us. 

Next it was onwards and upwards, literally.  1000 feet straight up by Halton Beck to Horse Head.  The clouds came down even more, the wind was stronger, the rain fell heavier and visibility was down to 5 yards.  We did not see the promised fantastic views -  not even the trig point.  A gradual descent then led us to Yockenthwaite in  Langstrothdale. (where our B&B was located(  We decided to walk to Buckden as it was still early and see if we could get some tea and cake,  We walked along the banks of the River Wharf, a route we had both done before as we were now following The Dales Way . We spotted house martins, swifts, yellow wagtails,pied wagtails and assorted ducks.  

The path was muddy and slippery so we decided to leave the riverbank at Hubberholme and walk along the road to Buckden.  The road was closed to cars as the water board were laying water pipes to the local villages.  Until  now all the properties in the area were off grid.The Geordie navvies guided us past the machinery and trenches and we arrived in Buckden to find the tea room still open.  Cake and tea consumed gratefully whist we gently steamed - boots and waterproofs were dumped outside.  Next to the tea room was the village store which unfortunately was closed.  However, the lad from the tea rooms was the brother of the shop owner - he very kindly opened up the shop and provided us with lunch for the next day - good lad.  No other places to buy food - even the three local pubs were closed (this was a Monday).  We then  walked the 3 miles back to our B&B and the less said about that place the better...

Day 1

Settle to Horton - in - Ribblesdale (July 2012)
7 1/4 miles
Weather - sunny, then cloudy, stiff breeze on the tops, warm in the valleys

A good breakfast and we were off on our new adventure into the hills. The trains were on time but you do need to be on your toes at Manchester Airport railway station as the trains are liable to switch platforms at the last moment.  I've a feeling the railway staff do this to make the working day more interesting.  There were lots of people looking bewitched, bothered and bewildered as they struggled to carry their luggage and find their elusive, slippery, platform switching trains. Once on the correct train we met a Californian couple who were off to Lytham for the Open Golf tournament - I wonder what they thought of the chaos... We had one change at Preston which went surprisingly smoothly as we stepped off one train straight on to the next.  Carrying just one ruck sack and no extra luggage is proving to be a boon.

We arrived in Settle in fine sunshine to find the town full of bikers - including a chapter of Hells' Angels called Satan's Helpers. There wasn't a lot of Devil worshipping going on but there was plenty of tea and cake worshipping in the Naked Man Cafe.  After some tea and cake we were off up the steep path of Constitution Hill and soon we were both hot and blowing like a pair of steam engines. The Pennine Journey makes good use of the many existing paths and here we were following the Pennine Bridleway - a path we were familiar with from last year's epic walk A Dales High Way 

We walked through Langcliffe which is a typical Yorkshire Dales village.  The church was serving teas and they had a bric a brac stall but we had no time to browse or spare capacity to carry interesting purchases.We then carried on to Stainforth down a steep and rocky path and attempted to ford the river by the handily placed stepping stones.  Anyone who knows me well will know my aversion to stepping stones and these were no exception.  Discretion, as always, is the better part of valour and we took a detour over a handy bridge...  In my defence the river was quite high and one of the stones had been swept down stream.  After Stainforth we were walking over rolling moorland with limestone outcrops.  Mrs C helped a Duke of Edinburgh group with their navigation.  They were looking for Malham but were heading for Settle.  Our next encounter was a herd of cows with calves but we manfully strode through the field and skirted round as many as we could.  Of course, most of them had decided to have a meeting by the stile...

PenyGent was in full view now and looking magnificent and moody.  For a change it didn't have it's usual mantle of cloud.  We continued our walk in the warm sunshine along byways, moorland paths and over a lot of stiles.  We saw cranesbill, clover, thistle, red campion and buttercups in the hedges.  We saw a pair of curlews who flew very close and I suspect we were near their nesting chicks.  We also saw wheatears, swifts, crows, wagtails and rabbits.

We arrived in Horton late afternoon and retired to the Golden Lion for a celebratory glass of wine - day one done and dusted.  We were staying at Broadcroft House B&B which is a splendid establishment.  A beautiful room with bathrobes and slippers!  Top tip from Mrs C today was 'How to wash clothes whilst having a shower' - put your clothes in the shower tray whilst you shower and hey presto the clothes get washed whilst you do!  Second top tip of the day from Mrs C.  'How to help your washed clothes to dry' - roll clothes in a towel for a few minutes and this will get rid of excess water - brilliant!